![]() ![]() My roughing tool of choice is a standard (carbide if possible) router bit - either 1/4" or 1/8" depending on the application. Yet, I know if I go too slow, I can rub it and burn it up that way too (though I’ve never smelled it at 10 in/min). It just gives me the heebejeebies when I go past 10 on rough cuts that are ~50% of my tool diameter. Everything is tight and it has no problem churning through the material. My spindle is the Dewalt 611 set as slow as it will go. Starts making chattery noises, yet I see people running in the neighborhood of 60 in/min. I know not advisable to do more than 50% stepover, which is fine, but just flying by the seat of my pants, I seem get nervous with anything over 10 in/min. Basically, I’m looking for some solid feedrate suggestions for both hogging MDF and hardwoods. You have to be vigilant running this slow with downshear bits - fire is a very real danger when cramming hot chips into a groove.I’m sure some of you are sick of this by now, but I’m still a n00b on some of this. The carbide bits designed for aluminum have less of a hook angle, and trying to run these any faster is futile. I've noticed higher feed rates possible using 3-4 flute hoggers designed for aluminum, but only the HSS ones, so the life span is pretty short there. Chiploads don't apply so much with such a delicate bit. I've achieved the best life in hardwoods running two flutes 100ipm at 16k. Minor uses are sharpening corner radii and machining grilles. I've been using 1/8" bits for years, primarily for bead removal in door profiles. Two, three and four flute tools of this configuration are available from MSC and other places. These applications both require the use of a 3/4" flute length, which gets very touchy for breaking bits, but five or six passes at 150RPM works great. If you are really cagey the biscuit or spline to fix the frame to the cabinet can be done first as "reverse side nesting", but that is another story. Takes a while to run, but just set up the sheet, get a coffee and when you come back the frame and doors are all done. Very low on waste this way as the door is in place on the table and the 1/8" gap is the 1/8 " bit. This leaves a very small reveal and matched grain, for example under a desk for access to wiring chase imbedded in a diewall or an access panel in a cabinet side.Īnother great application is to make MDF face frames, whether beaded or not and the MDF door that fits the openings all out of one piece of material. I cut a lot of access panels in pre-laminated sheet stock with a 1/8 diameter, then edgeband the inner panel. I get the shortest flute length that will do the job, and if I can a 1/4" shank like, say, the Onsrud 61-240 so much the better. Too much at once or too fast will snap them right off, but they are plenty stable and reliable when you get in the right zone. Keep in mind chipload is not a function of diameter, just of feed and speed. I think that the chipload tables really don't apply at these diameters very well. 150 to 180 IPM works for me, depending on depth of cut and flute length, a long flute out of the chuck makes the bit more delicate, shorter is stronger. I have used 1/8" up and down shear at 18000 - 20000 and usually run 1/8 to 1/4" deep passes multiple times. Then drop feed by 10 to 15% and you should be fine. Try starting out at 150IPM and increasing slowly until you snap one. I have a client who would like to use 1/8" backs on his cabinets and I wouldn't mind having the bit to do some engraving work on lumber and other materials for fun. I am not sure if I am running too fast for melamine but according to my calculations I am at. The overall length of the bit was just short of 5/8". I have the bit set at 5500 mmm (216 ipm) at 18000rpm. I just set up an 1/8" 2 flute down shear bit and it tore off in about 3". ![]()
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